Hey all,
I'm looking for some more guidance regarding my 16 month old male Stabyhoun+Australian shepherd mix.
What I'm working on a lot right now, is trying to make him react/feel different about things. He used to get worked up (staring, sometimes lunging, pulling) at things like people, cats, dogs!, birds, leaves floating around. Especially dogs and cats interest him now. I've also been working on leash pulling, which is definitely making progress (although slow). His pulling is way less than before, and he knows Pulling = me stopping, until leash is slack (I then immediate release all leash tension once he gives in, and then we continue working). The circle method also works well for us. But it's still not what I'd like it to be. So more tips on this would be awesome too. I just feel like him being so over-excited/reactive towards the environment is also contributing to him pulling, so that's why I'm also trying to focus a lot on the trigger issues.
What I came across recently, was this technique:
At the exact moment the dog see's a trigger such as a dog, human, car, bird, etc, then CLICK/Mark and reward. What I have been told is to do this BEFORE he gets the chance to react to the trigger. It has been said that clicking/marking the moment he see's a trigger, he starts to associate a positive reaction with the trigger, and will eventually look at a trigger and expect a treat to arrive. Then, eventually, he's then supposedly supposed to look at the trigger, then look at me ("Where it the treat") and then the exact moment he looks at me, I'd need to click+treat. At this point I'm not supposed to click the moment he see's the trigger anymore.
Is this technique I learned the correct way of going about this?
Another technique or variation was: when a dog see's the trigger, immediate treat him (without marking or clicking) because the trigger will serve as the 'marker'. The human, dog, cat, bird will be 'the marker' which indicated the treat is coming.
Yet another variation is to only click+reward once the dog looks back at you after locking eyes on the trigger. To me, the feels a bit difficult, because it offers him too much time to amp himself up whilst being focused on his trigger.
What are some of the techniques that worked for you and your dog? I'm very curious to learn about more ways to go about this. My main goal is to simply be able to walk with him, without him being so over-excited/reactive towards other dogs, humans, cats, bird, leaves blowing around, etc.
I feel like he's already close to neutral towards humans, and making progress regarding birds. I'm just trying see if I'm going about this the right way, or in the most productive way. He's a quick learner. He learned to weave between my legs in one afternoon, as well as to heel using a pivot motion (using this method:
). It indicates to me that he's clever enough to learn (and quick, if he's offered good communication that fits his way of thinking), and it gives me motivation and hope to continue to do my best. I feel like I need to understand the dog better, and that I need to understand how to communicate better with the dog. He's not dumb, but he needs proper fitting communication from me to learn how to do things, or what to do.
If any of you can help me gain some more clarity, or guidance regarding training, it would be greatly appreciated. Videos, personal experiences and tips/advice are all welcome.
Thank you kindly.
I'm looking for some more guidance regarding my 16 month old male Stabyhoun+Australian shepherd mix.
What I'm working on a lot right now, is trying to make him react/feel different about things. He used to get worked up (staring, sometimes lunging, pulling) at things like people, cats, dogs!, birds, leaves floating around. Especially dogs and cats interest him now. I've also been working on leash pulling, which is definitely making progress (although slow). His pulling is way less than before, and he knows Pulling = me stopping, until leash is slack (I then immediate release all leash tension once he gives in, and then we continue working). The circle method also works well for us. But it's still not what I'd like it to be. So more tips on this would be awesome too. I just feel like him being so over-excited/reactive towards the environment is also contributing to him pulling, so that's why I'm also trying to focus a lot on the trigger issues.
What I came across recently, was this technique:
At the exact moment the dog see's a trigger such as a dog, human, car, bird, etc, then CLICK/Mark and reward. What I have been told is to do this BEFORE he gets the chance to react to the trigger. It has been said that clicking/marking the moment he see's a trigger, he starts to associate a positive reaction with the trigger, and will eventually look at a trigger and expect a treat to arrive. Then, eventually, he's then supposedly supposed to look at the trigger, then look at me ("Where it the treat") and then the exact moment he looks at me, I'd need to click+treat. At this point I'm not supposed to click the moment he see's the trigger anymore.
Is this technique I learned the correct way of going about this?
Another technique or variation was: when a dog see's the trigger, immediate treat him (without marking or clicking) because the trigger will serve as the 'marker'. The human, dog, cat, bird will be 'the marker' which indicated the treat is coming.
Yet another variation is to only click+reward once the dog looks back at you after locking eyes on the trigger. To me, the feels a bit difficult, because it offers him too much time to amp himself up whilst being focused on his trigger.
What are some of the techniques that worked for you and your dog? I'm very curious to learn about more ways to go about this. My main goal is to simply be able to walk with him, without him being so over-excited/reactive towards other dogs, humans, cats, bird, leaves blowing around, etc.
I feel like he's already close to neutral towards humans, and making progress regarding birds. I'm just trying see if I'm going about this the right way, or in the most productive way. He's a quick learner. He learned to weave between my legs in one afternoon, as well as to heel using a pivot motion (using this method:
If any of you can help me gain some more clarity, or guidance regarding training, it would be greatly appreciated. Videos, personal experiences and tips/advice are all welcome.
Thank you kindly.