3 month old corgi never stops unless sleeping. Need help

@2honorhim Generally that's basically what we do. The hours was us at our limit and testing to see if thst was it. Any suggestions for th "mat" training? I hadn't heard of that.
 
@scholasticus Mat training is somewhat similar to crate training.

You have to get them to associate the mat as their chill out place where good stuff happens on the mat if they stay on it. Teach the command to "go to mat" and get her to lay down and stay there. If your corgi doesn't know stay yet, then teach her that first. Gradually increase the length of time she stays on it and getting treats on it. Only give super high value treats on the mat.

Also don't leave the mat around, it's only down there when you want her to get on the mat. When she's not on it, pick it up and roll it up. The mat is a special place, not something you just leave on the ground.

You can pair mat training with the Relaxation Protocol, get her to stay on the mat while you practice the protocol. I suggest you google both mat training and the relaxation protocol. They're amazing tools.

Also your pup is only 3 months old, they chill out a little bit later as long as you keep encouraging calm behavior.
 
@tienthanh0709 Man I can't find anything she would consider "high value" for a treat besides turkey. But is it really healthy to keep giving her turkey when training can take a long time, over time?
 
@scholasticus Turkey is fine. Stick to breast, high protein treats keep them interested in you. Just keep them in small bite size chunks, we're talking half a fingernail size and she'll be fine.

Mine loves chicken breast or fish jerky as treats, other than that, everything is just normal to him.

Also some other practical uses of mat training:
1. Getting them to chill out in the car if you're not bringing the crate.
2. Getting them to go to a certain spot that's unfamiliar or stresses them out i.e. The vet's table, or weighing scale.
3. Getting them to chill on the kitchen floor while you're occupied sorting things out.

Etc
 
@scholasticus I don't know if this is specifically "mat training" but it's something we're trying to do.

It's training your dog to go to a specific spot (or mat) with a command. We use "park it!" You start by luring your dog onto the mat and when four paws are on, you mark and reward (mark with a clicker or a short word that lets your dog know they did it right, then praise or give treats). Then you give a release command, and lure them off. Always do this last part so they don't just walk off their mat anytime they feel like it.

Once that is kinda there, you move on to having them get all paws on the mat and sit. Then work on attaching a command and having it work with you beside the mat. Then you slowly say the command at greater distances from the mat.
 
@2honorhim Plus she's a corgi. I have a ten year old corg, he's great but he isn't "miles and miles" of hiking material. Those short little legs can't keep up.
 
@scholasticus Try dialing the physical activities down a bit, avoid any exercises or playing inside. Also the dog park adds lots of excitement without any training benefit. Drop that. Reward calm behavior or settling down inside. Ensure that inside is a calm place and the dog remains undisturbed and maintain a rigorous schedule.

You can use the scavenging desire to do some nose work - outside. Hide some kibble 5-10m away from the dog (in sit - which also draws a bit of concentration to maintain) around fallen tree trunk or on some rock etc., place it in hard to find spots and then let the dog search.
 
@dmac0505 This is some solid advice ! I have a Mall which always wants to go go go. But the breeder I got him from gave me the advice to not do anything inside. Which has had great results. Inside he wil just go and lay down grab a bone or sleep. He comes and checks in every once in a while to get a cuddle but no hyperactivity.
 
@scholasticus Puppies have lots of energy but they also need more sleep than an adult dog. All the herding puppies I've trained and lived with over the years tend to get extra bitey, wound up and cranky when they are overtired. I know you'll get advice to wear her out, but her body isn't ready for that yet and she may just need more rest than she is currently getting.

Teach her to use puzzle toys and use them for feeding. Make sure you start on easy mode so that she doesn't rage quit with frustration. Fill the classic Kong with dry kibble that easily falls out. Feed from a puzzle bowl (aka: slow feed bowl). Do some simple nose work exercises where you hide kibble around a puppy proof room for her to snuffle around and find.

If she's a constant sniffer, turn it into a training exercise for eye contact. (You'll need to have taught her a marker sound like a clicker or "yes". Clickers are always more consistent than a verbal marker) Place her on a leash so she has a set radius, and make sure you have something high-value like chicken. Tell her to her "go smell!" and wait. The moment she orients toward you, mark and reward her, but make her come near your leg for the reward (just hold your hand by your shin). Then, release her to "go smell!" Raise criteria slightly with each successful repetition; next time she has to look at your legs or feet. Then up toward your hand, then finally eye contact. Every time hand her a treat near your leg, then release her to "go smell!" Eventually, after many sessions, she will engage with you more than her environment. Start in familiar indoor environments (like your living room) and progress slowly to more exciting and new places.

Teach her "place" on a mat. This will be a good foundation for getting her to settle and find the middle ground. There are some resources in the sidebar for video tutorials (try Kikopup on YouTube).

Most importantly, be patient! She's a puppy and she is still learning how to live in your world. Many mistakes will be made on both ends, and it's ok and totally normal. Her land shark behavior will go away as long as you are consistent with your bite inhibition training. She may need a play date with an adult, puppy savvy dog to help with her rough play. She may be too intimidated to play with a group of puppies. Ask your dog trainer if s/he can help you find a dog your puppy can play with one-on-one.

Hope this helps!
 
@windabladesquire She has good actual bite inhibition. Her actual biting is generally very weak now. My lip got hurt bc she is 8 pounds with sharp teeth so falling destroyed my lip. She kniws her name, look at me, and other stuff just ignores me when scavenging.
 
@scholasticus When dog owners come to class saying their dog "knows" something I ask them two things..
  1. Can your dog perform the cue under any circumstance?
  2. Have you had at least 1000 successful repetitions over the dogs life?
If not, she has an understanding of how to do these things under very specific conditions, but she still needs lots of practice to "know" them . If her success is linked to inside your house, and maybe training class, you need more practice generalizing her cues around differing distractions and locations.

It takes months, not weeks, to fully train a dog. When we are talking puppies, you have an adolescent until they are two. Please be patient and adjust your expectations for what a 3 month old should be doing. You're doing fine and there is nothing defective with your puppy.

The "go smell" exercise above is adapted from a training exercise in a book called "Control Unleashed". There is a puppy version available as well. A lot of emphasis is on getting calm and focus from dogs to prepare them for dog sports, but there's a ton of useful information for the pet dog owner as well. They sell it on Dogwise, Cleanrun, and Amazon. I recommend you get the puppy version and give it a read.

Also, I always recommend learning how to clicker train. You'll want to come up with tricks and new things to teach your puppy her whole life, because it will keep her brain occupied. I find it much easier for my dog to reach that "ah ha!" moment when I mark with a clicker. I also tend to shut up and get out of my dogs thinking space when I use one to teach something new.
 
@strawberry0034 I can't afford any real training besides stuff that is easy enough on my own. But does go to classes. It's just, outside of home, she never ever plays. She just scavenges. So no one else gets to see how rough her playing is. All they see is a puppy ignoring the world to scavenge and thinking I'm crazy about her biting our faces. But these classes just do stuff I had alrrady taught her like basic obedience training.
 
@scholasticus Given how small she is, isn't it pretty easy to just not let your face be near enough to bite?

If she doesn't come on your bed and you don't lay down, or bring her on your lap to cuddle. How can she reach your face?
 
@jmiahman I mean, she is so tiny that I have to at least sit down to interact with her. Then she jumps and chomps me. That said, the behavior hasn't gone aeay by just ignoring her when she does it or even by telling her "no" or redirecting her or anything of the sort.
 
@scholasticus Cross your arms and state at her while saying no, and stay that way for a minute or so. Dogs hate that and so it gets through. Or grab her mussle and hold it for 5-30 secs while repeating no biting. They don't like that so learn.

Also get some gardening gloves so you can give her positive opportunities where she can bite, and also get her excited so you can teach her to control unwanted impulses when excited
 

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