B.A.T success for frustrated greeters?

annaboleyn

New member
TLDR: any of you guys use BAT and how have you successfully been able to use it for frustrated greeters when in close proximity to other dogs? Most especially if dogs are passing each other head on. Do you use BAT or do you modify with more management/rediection (as in constantly directing the dog pass vs. allowing them to make decisions).

If you use micromanaging techniques have you found yourself able to slowly phase them out or minimize the amount of distraction/redirection?

Also for those who use BAT techniques would love to hear you general experience utilizing the method as well.

More details below if needed:

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Hey guys, curious if anyone has had experience utilizing behavior adjustment training for their frustrated greeters.

I know Bat is primarily for fearful and aggressive dogs but through reading BAT 2.0 and watching some videos by the creator/writer it’s been explained that the method is also valuable and helpful for excitable, over social dogs as well.

I have an Aussie whose reactivity is very minimal now. He only whines when he sees another reactive dog and sometimes will try to greet with a tense line if we pass another dog in 5-10ft radius. He doesn’t lunge or bark anymore but will fixate and try to air sniff them. I can tell though he is about one step from over threshold. So would love to make his feelings around other dogs a little less stressful.

I was using a lot of control unleashed and general behavior mod stuff from trainers to address his general reactivity stemming from over stimulation and hyper social behavior, but have found using BAT with dogs in the vicinity works super well in ways those other techniques did not. Such as crossing pass dog parks or dogs in a field or even on walks. For a long time we were stuck with him hyper fixating in those areas. Introducing BAT has made him way more neutral in seeing dogs and picking functional behaviors to do instead of stressing about the dogs around him. The only issue I’m still having is passing dogs head on.

I always attempt to use distance first (change direction, creat space, arch around) so I’m not challenging him to pass dogs on a regular but on occasion have no option especially on hiking paths, street corners, walking into dog classes, and bridges.

I know BAT encourages that frustrated (but non aggressive) dogs greet or interact with the subject once they are proficiently under threshold. I’m not a big fan of that because of the chance of strange dogs being reactive or aggressive and my dog triggering those feelings or my dog sliding back into more obnoxious/excitable behavior after greetings is something don’t want to risk. I also know the book says that dogs don’t have to greet although the writer prefers allowing hers to and doesn’t really give context of how to go about using the method without greeting as an end goal.

I hope that explanation makes since would be curious if you guys out there have had experience using this method and how you’ve bridged the gap when it comes to passing another dog. Do you use BAT or do you switch to something like engage, disengage and more so micromanage the behavior?
 
@annaboleyn I would be very interested in any one elses reply as well. I too have been using BAT and am having issues with closing the distance to direct head on pass and also surprises although his recovery is much faster

I don't quite know how to progress further
 
@monk58 I feel so similar as I am noticing the same thing. My dogs recovery to other dogs is a way quicker and he is making good decisions afterwards but he just gets stuck for those few seconds when it’s head on and gets a little too close to the behavior that was a precursor to lunging.

I wish there were more hands on trainers available to really explain the more nuanced part of the method. I live in a major city and the closest BAT trainer to me is still a couple hours away. So it’s a bit frustrating to really get clarification on how some concepts work for the method. :/
 
@annaboleyn That’s awesome you’re having success with BAT!

From what I understand, if you’re too close in proximity and about to go overthreshold, you’d use slow stop, slide, mime pull, and/or Mark and Move (mark air sniffing or looking, move away, then treat).

There’s also Zigzag Mark and Move which is marking for gathering info, tossing treat to one side, seeing what dog wants to do, if he chooses to go towards trigger, mark and toss treat to other side. Probably not the best for potential head on greetings in uncontrollable settings though.

Another alternative is having the dog follow your fingers or hand to get him to move in the direction you’d like. Heeling could work here too. You’d have to teach these ahead of time.

If you’re not comfortable with greetings, that’s totally fine! I think they’re best done in formal BAT set ups when your dog is familiar with a particular trigger (so probably after a few set ups) and then doing parallel walking, slowly getting closer. Allow for short greeting (like a few seconds max), mark and move.

My own pup is fear reactive so I just always keep him away from others. If I’m too close I’ll use the “survival skills” if he’s looking like he’ll go over threshold.

Hope this helps! 🤗
 
@annaboleyn I have had a ton of success with BAT and my reactive/frustrated greeter. We haven't gotten to head on passing yet, but I have noticed that it has greatly increased his overwhelm threshold generally. I feel confident that with the goal of staying under threshold that we can get to a place where he can pass head on. We have done most sessions where we work with the intent to not greet the test dog, but occasionally we will throw in a session or 2 with a safe dog (proven to be mostly disinterested in dogs) that we can approach, let sniff and disengage. I have noticed that in these greetings, the first few times actually getting to sniff got him really fired up and doing zoomies and play bows to get the dogs attention, but then I would call him away for a super high value treat and do the same approach again. Usually the second approach is much harder because he wants to play. But if I hold criteria of under threshold being no play solicitation we have to start a lot further away but usually that repeat he is able to approach calmly and stay under threshold. I ~think~ it has been helping to mix these in every 10th-20th time. My goal eventually is to get an approach, sniff, then calm disengage, but we're not quite there yet. I'm seeing that it's getting easier with time, but it's really hard to find test dogs that will meet the criteria for stability.
 
@codyw That’s awesome! There aren’t any trainers who really use BAT protocols super close to me despite living in a major city, so it’s really hard to find neutral spaces to practice.

I sometimes get lucky enough to work on some skills before and after my sports class when we are all first arriving and setting up. We all walk the dogs ahead of time for bathroom breaks so it’s good opportunities to practice more neutral responses with dogs who are usually well below threshold and/or usually mild temperament.

But besides that it’s scouting places where I can find dogs who are at least leashed, good recall or behind a dog park fence.
 
@annaboleyn For us Google maps has helped a TON. We can basically do BAT in any park that has big wide open spaces. So I look at Google maps to find them.
 
@codyw I’ve tried something super similar but even with a city ordinance for dogs to remain on leash people use these fields to exercise or “socialize” their dogs off line. I usually don’t mind if the dogs are off leash and are at least well responsive to their owner and have good recall, but most of them don’t. :(

My dog is off leash trained (although I usually have him drag a long line if I think we will hav other dogs running up close to us) but I still keep him on a long line or a 6 foot leash whenever we are in on leash spaces. It just frustrates me others can’t keep make the same courtesy or judge their dog isn’t at the point to be off leash yet.
 
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