Need assistance walking past dogs

@snowballowen I just follow instructions from my trainer. He has to know the command before you correct him for it, and I only give very limited corrections.
When he pops off at another dog I say no and he gets a zap. If the other dog pops off at him he doesn’t get a zap. None of this involves any physical contact between the dogs. If he is curious about the dog but doesn’t lunge at them he doesn’t get corrected he still gets his marker word & a treat.
The only other time he gets corrected is if he throws his weight into pulling to go sniff something. I say no and zap him.
You need to start with the lowest possible setting that gets his attention. And my trainer had me focus on practicing in very squirrel populous places before moving on to dog populous places.
He doesn’t get corrected for jumping on people, because I don’t want him to associate people or dogs with corrections.
Not sure if this is what you meant!
 
@snowballowen you're are going thru a phase . just keep practicing .one day it will be just a distance memory . IS this your first dog? What's your long term goals ? how does this dog fit in your life. why did you pick this dog? What do you see as this dogs needs ? how will it meet yours? I'm just curious . you seem to have a commitment already. why did you get a dog.?

Suggestion.. watch every youtube trainer .Till you find a solution that you can understand..
 
@monica26 Not my first dog - my 5th. Others needed to be taught neutrality, but not nearly to this extent. Goal is to have an off leash hiking companion that doesn't run up to every human and dog on the train - picked out a medium energy (I do have a 9-5 WFH job) pup who was very brave and friendly, and want to be able to take him anywhere and everywhere. He's been super well socialized with respect to visiting many places and practicing neutrality. Doesn't feel like a phase since he's been like this since day 1!
 
@snowballowen that's informative. So what do you do at home

without distractions. this is where I've built a lot of communication . giving the dog a place to be in every room . Supervising its habits throughout the house. keeping the dog from tongue punching the floor .to what happens at the door. when everybody has a clear expectation of how to act.. you can smooth out the rough edges. . change what doesn't work . keep what does. Breath . and do that a lot . maybe if your anxious on the trail .the dog maybe reading you and misunderstanding the signals you're sending. meaning all those feeling you have . the dog feels too and you're seeing the side effects . ask yourself how you're feeling in that moment . then breath . shake it off and move along.I know easier said than done. there's no quick fix sometimes . it will all pay off .
 
@snowballowen For me it was easier to teach avoidance off leash than on leash and that’s how I figured out it was all about mastering “heel”. He already had good recall so off-leash was kinda okay. I say stop bribing him, it’s an excited dog that keeps being rewarded for emotions that are unwanted.

Put him on the opposite side of the incoming dog, preferably on a short leash (5-6feet). If he starts breaking the heel you have your legs to nudge him in place.

If you want positive reinforcement somewhere in there take him to a park that is not too busy and make him sit and wait on the side every time a dog passes by. I am a firm believer that just throwing treats without any sort of command in situations like this is more harmful than good. That’s been the case for me anyway.
 
@mark1215 His heel generally sucks. Have to correct every 5ish steps. The lure of sniffing is just too great; so suppose we should work on that first.
I'll try the sitting on the side method and see if we have any success with that!
 

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