Two dog household and resource guarding

childoflove

New member
I’m sure I’m going to sound like I’m over thinking things, but I’m curious to those who have more than one dog households... Do one or more of your dogs growl at each other when having a high value treat or toy?

About 6 weeks ago, we adopted a 2yo mutt (18 different breeds) from a local shelter and was told (by his foster) there wasn’t any sign of resource guarding before we adopted. He doesn’t do it all the time, but will when there’s something high value around. For example if there is a lick mat or yak chew…and our other (non-confrontational) dog gets within 6 feet of him he starts to growl. Which then, he takes the warning and backs away/removes himself from the room.

Our new guy has quite the stare 🫣 and it throws me off when he acts confrontational.

I know this is a typical behavior with a lot with dogs, but I’m just curious if it gets better or stays the same or gets worse? Obviously we will work on training things with our trainer, but little dude has been through a lot. He’s pretty anxious…and is currently doing heart worm treatment. I’m just hoping with love, meds and him getting comfy with structure that will subside.

Any advice? I wanna make sure I’m honoring boundaries while also nurturing a safe environment for both dogs. Thanks.
 
@childoflove We’ve had two separate sets of two dogs. And each set seemed to have one who was more of an ass than the other. Our current ones are brothers from a rescue in Greece. They look nothing like alike and many aspects of their personalities are completely opposite of the other. Max has way more energy than Henry. Even before we brought them home, I would receive videos from the rescue of them together and Max was always trying to get Henry to play, pulling on his tail, etc. Even now, at two years old, it’s the same. When one gets a special thing (like a bone, toy, or a lick mat) the other one also gets one. Inevitably though, Max will decide he wants Henry’s and will come take it and run off, at which point Henry figuratively shrugs his shoulders and goes over to get the one Max abandoned. If it gets to the point where there is growling or I think it seems like it could be heading for a problem, I remove the object from them both. But that’s rare. And honestly, they seem pretty good at out sorting it out for themselves. I make sure to watch to see if I’ll need to intervene but it’s pretty unusual.

With our previous dogs, in order to prevent any issues of food aggression, but also to encourage them to like their kennels, they received their meals in their kennels. That way they were separated and each could eat in peace. I’d also give them each a peanut butter stuffed kong in their kennels so they could enjoy them without feeling like they had to guard them from the other. Eventually, as they got older, we did away with the kennels because they weren’t destroying the house anymore but we still fed them separated from each other. Still in the same room, but several feet away. If one finished early and approached the other still eating, there would sometimes be a growl but I’d just remove the one who was finished to let the other eat the rest of his food in peace.
 
@childoflove human love and human comfort will not change his behavior.

I have two dogs, two very - uhm - "strong" catahoulas. they know what they want and that's that. i was warned before i rescued #2 that they are never and ever to be left alone for the day while i'm at work.. they will fight to the death. #2 guarded everything! toys, treats - he turned into an alligator at mealtime - lunging and snapping at the girls. and if all that wasn't enough fun - when i took away something he 'loved' he would throw himself on the ground kicking and snapping his jaws in a tantrum that would shame any human child. I have had my two for almost ten years now and they have never had a fight because i manage everything, they will tattle on each other because i have a record of being fair.

you must have rules and boundaries - this isn't that alpha theory crap - dogs thrive with structure. work tirelessly on "leave it" and "trade" Watch for unacceptable behavior between the two; if dog A takes the bone from dog B, you immediately remove the bone from dog B and give it back to dog A. (this is where i strongly recommend you work on "trade" (moving to "give me the thing" so that you don't lose a finger snatching something from your dog's mouth) Please, do not feed them together. If you don't have crates, put them in separate rooms during meal time and do not leave them unattended.

You've had the new dog 6 weeks but it takes a dog 3 months to fully settle into his new digs. some of his behavior is likely insecurity - so as he settles it could get worse - or maybe better. i'm gonna put my money on worse.
 
@jakofhears Thanks for sharing! Yep. We are working very hard on leave it. I’ll have to start introducing trade soon. They don’t really do the whole exchange thing. Or at least I don’t let it happen.

We are also feeding separately in crates and all of that. I know it takes time and I’m also adjusting to having a new personality in the mix as well.

Cool to hear you are very fair (I’ve heard other opinions on this lol). I try to be!

I’ve read/heard that owners shouldn’t reprimand dogs when growling or giving a warning to other dogs as that will escalate their warning signs to more extreme ones as they learn they get “in trouble” for the more tame ones like growling. Do you use “leave it” in those
Situations as well or just let them de-escalate?
 
@childoflove I never let my dogs solve their own problems. I fear that it will become a habit and escalate. They really do tattle and it’s hilarious! My boy has never destroyed a toy but he loves clenching them to make noise (I buy him the ones that make real animal sounds) My girl HATES them! She will snatch it and try and crush it - my boy runs to me whining and stamping his feet for me to save his toy 🤣

As to growl correction; the reason you don’t reprimand a dog for growling is because that is their way of warning. That comes before teeth so if you teach them not to growl - you’ll end up with a dog that bites without warning. Instead, change the environment, the tagline is “distract and redirect”

So if dog A has a bone, dog B goes to take the bone and dog A growls you would give some sound of disapproval “ah ah ah” and tell dog B to go get a toy, sit, touch (your hand) I, personally, would then confiscate the bone entirely because I don’t tolerate resource guarding. If the dog is growling to protect it, the value is too high. If it’s a constant behavior I would then only give high value items during crate time.

I read an interesting theory on multi dog households and have found it to work very well. Always distribute in order of seniority. Dog A gets first treat, then Dog B. Dog A gets their bowl, then Dog B… with consistency all dogs know what to expect. Mixing it up can create confusion, conflict, each dog rushing to be first.

I’m kinda weird in that I over train my dogs - some stuff doesn’t bother “me” but if I get hit by a bus and they have to be rehomed someone will be more willing to take both if theyre both good citizens.
 
@childoflove Check out Patricia McConnell. She’s a behaviorist, whole line of books, searchable blog - and she writes for the average human with ordinary family dogs. Best of luck to you and your pack 🍀
 
@childoflove I've had/have 3-6 dogs. When at 6, 1 was a bit pushy during feeding time. I had to feed him separately. But bones and treats were never an issue bc I made it worthwhile for them to sit in place and treat after saying their name. I'm down to 3, and they all eat within 2 feet from each other, sizes ranging from 20# to 50. It has never been an issue. But it's because from the moment they were added to the pack, I taught them to respect the boundaries.
The situation can only improve if you stay on top of correcting the behaviors. Some dogs it may never work feeding near each other, but it is possible to work/manage resource guarding. You should consider hiring a trainer to nip the guarding early as if not, things can get worse.
 
@angie197167 That’s great! What are your methods of correction when a growl or snarl happened in the past?

And we do have a trainer, but are taking a step back to work on getting on anxiety meds as well as his heart worm treatment.

Our vet told us to take a break until he’s fully used to the fluoxetine. So we are just doing basic stuff at home and trying to keep on what he’s already learned.
 
@childoflove Basically my training starts when a new dog/foster would join the household.
They would be kept separated in kitchen but able to see through the gate. Every morning we do mini training sessions. They know there names so they'd have to sit and stay, get a treat when name is called. I do have 1 now who "loses" impulse control even tho she's never aggressive, just has to stay in place so she knows to try to contain herself. She sees the others getting treats, but hers only when she's calm.

It takes time to build up safe feeding together. Start where they see each other at a distance, with some barrier. The dogs need to know no one is going to take their food away. Routine is crucial.
Then slowly decrease the space between them, never crossing their safe threshold. Have them on leash so if things go bad, you have it to stop them.
Again routine is crucial. Start with individual training sessions, 5-10 minutes 2x a day. Increase as they listen well. Then do together. Stick to a regular schedule.

I'm sorry if I'm not clear. I get brain fog, but have been involved with training and rescue for 20+ years so I sometimes don't articulate well. Feel free to ask!
 
Back
Top