Dog tie-out advice

rbell77

New member
I have a 1 1/5 year old English setter. I got him when he was 8 weeks old, at the time I was living in an appartment down town so he’s been a city dog. I had him on a harness for walking at a young age just because all the dogs I had growing up were harness dogs. Recently I’ve been walking him with his collar more and he’s been doing okay, pulls occasionally but much easier to redirect with one tug unless going to dog park he pulls the whole way so I just put him on harness because I don’t want him choking himself out. His recal is good while in dog parks but there fences in so even when he has lapses I’m not worried because he can’t go anywhere. He is however a very nosy dog and want to investigate EVERYTHING if there’s something new or we go someplace new and tends to care more about the new thing than treats if trying to train. I am moving into a house that has roughly an acre of land but is in a new development area so a lot of houses with smaller yards around it and backs up to a walking trail where a lot of people walk and with there dogs. He’s a very friendly dog and loves meeting new dogs and people so I’m not worried he will cause any trouble but don’t want him bothering other people or he happens to go up to a dog that’s not nice and get hurt.

My initial plan was to get a GPS e-collar like a “halo” but it’s just not in the budget right now before the move. Just because he’s so nosy I don’t trust him to not wander off at least not initially until he’s more comfortable with the area and we have a routine. I’ve just heard so many bad things about tie outs regarding if it’s best to put it on a dog with a harness vs a collar and differing views on the retractable leads vs just a long rubber cord tie out. He’s never been on a tie out so regardless it’s gonna be an adjustment for him but just wanted to know if anyone had any advice.
 
@rbell77 When we lived on several acres, I ran a cable between two trees, and then a longer cable on a wheel end. I put our dog on that, and he had more space to roam that way than a traditional lead allowed. You have to retighten the cable between the trees (some people use tall rebar in the ground to attach the two ends to instead) as the constant pulling can cause a sag and catch issue over time. But, it was the best option I've ever used when the space allowed.

Where we are not, I haven't had the option to do that, so use a different style tie out. Thankfully our neighbors to one side are awesome. I'm able to use a tie out that is flat (puppy training leash about 30 ft long). This is because we have puppers that while their recall is good, I want them being able to come inside to be released, or put them on the lead inside before opening the door.

But, that lead's not chew proof. If you have a chewer, it won't work as well, and a cable lead under the door will take off or ruin the door sweep that keeps vermin out. I learned that one the hard way. I replaced the door sweep and got this other lead.
 
@rbell77 I lived in a place like this before with my previous dog. My original plan was to set up a kennel but the property owner wouldn't allow me to dig to place secure fencing and my dog was a digger was not the type I could just chance having escape if I put him in a more flimsy.

I got the landlord to agree to let me install a sturdy post in part of the yard. I got an appropriate chain from a sundog supply company and attached it to a thic leather y shaped harness. He had a dog house for shade too. He enjoyed being able to sunbathe and hang out in the yard. The maximum I would leave him out was an hour usually.

I don't see anything wrong w tethering. Maybe search for some dog supply stores online to see if they have the equipment you need. I used an agitation-style harness for my dog but I'm sure you could use a thick Y-shaped nylon harness with the clip on the back.
 
@cottonstompconte Thanks for the insight. I definitely wouldn’t leave him out alone for hours on end but while I’m getting ready in the morning for example so he can get some outside time before I leave for work. Did you put a swivel on where it was secured to the post?

Follow up question, did you do training to make sure he wouldn’t try to go off to fast and get yanked back or was it kinda just a fast thing he quickly figured out his boarder when on the chain?
 
@rbell77 That's pretty much what I did! He was out tethered before and after work for 30-40 minutes and then on weekends while I was making meals bc I could see him through the kitchen sink window.

The post did not have a swivel, but the chain was specifically made for dogs and had a swivel on the end that connected to the post and the part that attached to the harness.

I did some training. I had my dog do long place drills on a mat on weekends like 1 hour at a time until I felt like he was associating the spot with relaxation. I put out a lawn chair just out of range and drank beer while the dog relaxed tbh. Later when I started letting him roam on the chain I also used the ecollar while he was out and corrected on a working level for the leash going tight just like I would for breaking a heel. It took about 5 weekends to acclimate him but after that it was fine.
 
@rbell77 I use one for my dogs when camping. There are spring buffers/dampers you can get and put inline (not at the post end, I put mine about 6 feet before the dog end so if he wraps up around the past or tree he doesn't take it out of the equation) so if the dog hits the end hard the last 8 inches or foot have some give to them to slow them down before they hit the end tension, but it isn't enough travel to boomerang them back (like a long rubber line might stretch 4 feet and soften the impact, but then jerk them back once they lose momentum). We use that in conjunction with a harness because he's never on a tie out at home. It's an overhead runner style.

You can't rely on a dog learning the boundaries of it, because they might wrap it up and shorten it unknowingly by wrapping it around something and hit the end before expected.
 

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